Migma Care set for recorders
Migma Care set for recorders
Contents:
- Cork grease
- Recorder oil
- Wiper
Oil: Protection from moisture
All wooden recorders must be oiled at certain intervals. This preserves the full beauty of the sound and response - otherwise the wood ages too quickly and changes its dimensions as it swells and dries.
The frequency of oiling depends on the type of wood and the amount of use, as the impregnation applied by the recorder maker is used up in the area of the wooden surfaces due to the breathing moisture that occurs when the instrument is played. As a rule, you should oil 2-3 times a year. Observe your instrument: If the wood in the inner bore begins to turn dull and gray, it needs oil.
Your care set contains linseed oil, which is traditionally used to care for woodwind instruments. It has the advantage that it hardens into a smooth film. Linseed oil (as well as other vegetable oils) must never be used to care for keys!
Please note that linseed oil is self-igniting . The cloths that you have used for oiling or dry wiping should be spread out to dry in the air (outdoors) until they are completely hardened. Only then can they be handed over to the household waste. If they are sealed airtight in a jar, they will keep fresh for a while and can be used again. There is no risk of self-ignition here.
1.Step: Oil
As a general rule, all parts of the flute except the block and wind tunnel should be oiled.
Oil has the task of protecting the wood through its water-repellent effect. However, this is undesirable in the area of the block and windway - here oil would lead to disturbing droplet formation ('droplet hoarseness'). But don't worry: even if a small amount of oil gets onto the block, it usually washes out again during playing (e.g. with the help of 'Antikondens').
The middle joint and foot are thoroughly oiled using the wooden wiper stick and a small cotton cloth (not fluffy!) and set aside for retraction.
The flute head requires particular care: hold the instrument with the windway facing upwards so that no oil can flow towards the block. Now insert the wooden rod with the well-oiled cloth from below into the inner bore of the flute and push it with slight turns until just before the block. Watch carefully through the cut-out opening ('window') to ensure that no oil reaches the front surface of the block!
The labium is oiled from the front and back with the pipe cleaner.
The beak can be lightly oiled after it has been cleaned of dirt. This brings out the grain of the wood particularly well.
Surface: Non-lacquered instruments are wiped from the outside with a slightly oily cloth. Lacquered surfaces should not be treated with oil!
2.Step: Allow to soak in
Now leave the instrument for a few hours (e.g. on a plate) so that the oil can soak in. Important: place the head upright so that no oil runs to the block.
3.Step: Wipe dry
Now carefully wipe away any oil that has not yet been absorbed with a clean cloth, as excess oil hardens into an ugly, sticky film that is very difficult to remove! This applies in particular to the tone holes: no oil residue should be left here as it would change the tuning! Use the pipe cleaner from the care set for this.
Tenon grease: to keep things running smoothly .
The tenon joints on the headjoint and footjoint of your recorder need care to ensure that they always remain elastic and smooth-running. The tenon grease only needs to be applied sparingly. Please remove any excess grease so that it does not stick to the edges of the tone hole.
A tip: Always turn tenon joints that are difficult to turn in one direction only. Then it's easier!
Care and cleaning
After playing, you should blow the moisture out of the windway of your recorder, e.g. as described above in connection with the anticondensation. Then wipe the inside of your instrument dry with the small leather cloth and the Kuncloth stick. You should then leave it open and disassembled (so that the tenon joints do not rub!) to allow it to dry further.
You can clean your recorder from time to time: wipe it with a damp cloth (possibly with a drop of dishwashing liquid/anticondensation). Traces of use usually settle in the beak area in particular, which can be removed in this way. Unvarnished instruments can then be easily oiled.
The pipe cleaner is the right tool for the tone holes: Has any dirt settled here that could affect the tuning?
The powerful wiper stick in your care set is used to clean the inside of the recorder, e.g. to remove adhering dirt or fluff.
This text has been automatically translated and may contain errors.
| Safety and warning information | Die für das Produkt geltenden Sicherheits- und Warnhinweise sind in der Bedienungsanleitung des Produkts aufgeführt. |
|---|---|
| manufacturer information | Migma eG Schützenstr. 27 08258 Markneukirchen GERMANY info@migma-eg.de |
Migma Care set for recorders
Contents:
- Cork grease
- Recorder oil
- Wiper
Oil: Protection from moisture
All wooden recorders must be oiled at certain intervals. This preserves the full beauty of the sound and response - otherwise the wood ages too quickly and changes its dimensions as it swells and dries.
The frequency of oiling depends on the type of wood and the amount of use, as the impregnation applied by the recorder maker is used up in the area of the wooden surfaces due to the breathing moisture that occurs when the instrument is played. As a rule, you should oil 2-3 times a year. Observe your instrument: If the wood in the inner bore begins to turn dull and gray, it needs oil.
Your care set contains linseed oil, which is traditionally used to care for woodwind instruments. It has the advantage that it hardens into a smooth film. Linseed oil (as well as other vegetable oils) must never be used to care for keys!
Please note that linseed oil is self-igniting . The cloths that you have used for oiling or dry wiping should be spread out to dry in the air (outdoors) until they are completely hardened. Only then can they be handed over to the household waste. If they are sealed airtight in a jar, they will keep fresh for a while and can be used again. There is no risk of self-ignition here.
1.Step: Oil
As a general rule, all parts of the flute except the block and wind tunnel should be oiled.
Oil has the task of protecting the wood through its water-repellent effect. However, this is undesirable in the area of the block and windway - here oil would lead to disturbing droplet formation ('droplet hoarseness'). But don't worry: even if a small amount of oil gets onto the block, it usually washes out again during playing (e.g. with the help of 'Antikondens').
The middle joint and foot are thoroughly oiled using the wooden wiper stick and a small cotton cloth (not fluffy!) and set aside for retraction.
The flute head requires particular care: hold the instrument with the windway facing upwards so that no oil can flow towards the block. Now insert the wooden rod with the well-oiled cloth from below into the inner bore of the flute and push it with slight turns until just before the block. Watch carefully through the cut-out opening ('window') to ensure that no oil reaches the front surface of the block!
The labium is oiled from the front and back with the pipe cleaner.
The beak can be lightly oiled after it has been cleaned of dirt. This brings out the grain of the wood particularly well.
Surface: Non-lacquered instruments are wiped from the outside with a slightly oily cloth. Lacquered surfaces should not be treated with oil!
2.Step: Allow to soak in
Now leave the instrument for a few hours (e.g. on a plate) so that the oil can soak in. Important: place the head upright so that no oil runs to the block.
3.Step: Wipe dry
Now carefully wipe away any oil that has not yet been absorbed with a clean cloth, as excess oil hardens into an ugly, sticky film that is very difficult to remove! This applies in particular to the tone holes: no oil residue should be left here as it would change the tuning! Use the pipe cleaner from the care set for this.
Tenon grease: to keep things running smoothly .
The tenon joints on the headjoint and footjoint of your recorder need care to ensure that they always remain elastic and smooth-running. The tenon grease only needs to be applied sparingly. Please remove any excess grease so that it does not stick to the edges of the tone hole.
A tip: Always turn tenon joints that are difficult to turn in one direction only. Then it's easier!
Care and cleaning
After playing, you should blow the moisture out of the windway of your recorder, e.g. as described above in connection with the anticondensation. Then wipe the inside of your instrument dry with the small leather cloth and the Kuncloth stick. You should then leave it open and disassembled (so that the tenon joints do not rub!) to allow it to dry further.
You can clean your recorder from time to time: wipe it with a damp cloth (possibly with a drop of dishwashing liquid/anticondensation). Traces of use usually settle in the beak area in particular, which can be removed in this way. Unvarnished instruments can then be easily oiled.
The pipe cleaner is the right tool for the tone holes: Has any dirt settled here that could affect the tuning?
The powerful wiper stick in your care set is used to clean the inside of the recorder, e.g. to remove adhering dirt or fluff.
This text has been automatically translated and may contain errors.
Migma Care set for recorders
Contents:
- Cork grease
- Recorder oil
- Wiper
Oil: Protection from moisture
All wooden recorders must be oiled at certain intervals. This preserves the full beauty of the sound and response - otherwise the wood ages too quickly and changes its dimensions as it swells and dries.
The frequency of oiling depends on the type of wood and the amount of use, as the impregnation applied by the recorder maker is used up in the area of the wooden surfaces due to the breathing moisture that occurs when the instrument is played. As a rule, you should oil 2-3 times a year. Observe your instrument: If the wood in the inner bore begins to turn dull and gray, it needs oil.
Your care set contains linseed oil, which is traditionally used to care for woodwind instruments. It has the advantage that it hardens into a smooth film. Linseed oil (as well as other vegetable oils) must never be used to care for keys!
Please note that linseed oil is self-igniting . The cloths that you have used for oiling or dry wiping should be spread out to dry in the air (outdoors) until they are completely hardened. Only then can they be handed over to the household waste. If they are sealed airtight in a jar, they will keep fresh for a while and can be used again. There is no risk of self-ignition here.
1.Step: Oil
As a general rule, all parts of the flute except the block and wind tunnel should be oiled.
Oil has the task of protecting the wood through its water-repellent effect. However, this is undesirable in the area of the block and windway - here oil would lead to disturbing droplet formation ('droplet hoarseness'). But don't worry: even if a small amount of oil gets onto the block, it usually washes out again during playing (e.g. with the help of 'Antikondens').
The middle joint and foot are thoroughly oiled using the wooden wiper stick and a small cotton cloth (not fluffy!) and set aside for retraction.
The flute head requires particular care: hold the instrument with the windway facing upwards so that no oil can flow towards the block. Now insert the wooden rod with the well-oiled cloth from below into the inner bore of the flute and push it with slight turns until just before the block. Watch carefully through the cut-out opening ('window') to ensure that no oil reaches the front surface of the block!
The labium is oiled from the front and back with the pipe cleaner.
The beak can be lightly oiled after it has been cleaned of dirt. This brings out the grain of the wood particularly well.
Surface: Non-lacquered instruments are wiped from the outside with a slightly oily cloth. Lacquered surfaces should not be treated with oil!
2.Step: Allow to soak in
Now leave the instrument for a few hours (e.g. on a plate) so that the oil can soak in. Important: place the head upright so that no oil runs to the block.
3.Step: Wipe dry
Now carefully wipe away any oil that has not yet been absorbed with a clean cloth, as excess oil hardens into an ugly, sticky film that is very difficult to remove! This applies in particular to the tone holes: no oil residue should be left here as it would change the tuning! Use the pipe cleaner from the care set for this.
Tenon grease: to keep things running smoothly .
The tenon joints on the headjoint and footjoint of your recorder need care to ensure that they always remain elastic and smooth-running. The tenon grease only needs to be applied sparingly. Please remove any excess grease so that it does not stick to the edges of the tone hole.
A tip: Always turn tenon joints that are difficult to turn in one direction only. Then it's easier!
Care and cleaning
After playing, you should blow the moisture out of the windway of your recorder, e.g. as described above in connection with the anticondensation. Then wipe the inside of your instrument dry with the small leather cloth and the Kuncloth stick. You should then leave it open and disassembled (so that the tenon joints do not rub!) to allow it to dry further.
You can clean your recorder from time to time: wipe it with a damp cloth (possibly with a drop of dishwashing liquid/anticondensation). Traces of use usually settle in the beak area in particular, which can be removed in this way. Unvarnished instruments can then be easily oiled.
The pipe cleaner is the right tool for the tone holes: Has any dirt settled here that could affect the tuning?
The powerful wiper stick in your care set is used to clean the inside of the recorder, e.g. to remove adhering dirt or fluff.
This text has been automatically translated and may contain errors.
| Safety and warning information | Die für das Produkt geltenden Sicherheits- und Warnhinweise sind in der Bedienungsanleitung des Produkts aufgeführt. |
|---|---|
| manufacturer information | Migma eG Schützenstr. 27 08258 Markneukirchen GERMANY info@migma-eg.de |
Migma Care set for recorders
Contents:
- Cork grease
- Recorder oil
- Wiper
Oil: Protection from moisture
All wooden recorders must be oiled at certain intervals. This preserves the full beauty of the sound and response - otherwise the wood ages too quickly and changes its dimensions as it swells and dries.
The frequency of oiling depends on the type of wood and the amount of use, as the impregnation applied by the recorder maker is used up in the area of the wooden surfaces due to the breathing moisture that occurs when the instrument is played. As a rule, you should oil 2-3 times a year. Observe your instrument: If the wood in the inner bore begins to turn dull and gray, it needs oil.
Your care set contains linseed oil, which is traditionally used to care for woodwind instruments. It has the advantage that it hardens into a smooth film. Linseed oil (as well as other vegetable oils) must never be used to care for keys!
Please note that linseed oil is self-igniting . The cloths that you have used for oiling or dry wiping should be spread out to dry in the air (outdoors) until they are completely hardened. Only then can they be handed over to the household waste. If they are sealed airtight in a jar, they will keep fresh for a while and can be used again. There is no risk of self-ignition here.
1.Step: Oil
As a general rule, all parts of the flute except the block and wind tunnel should be oiled.
Oil has the task of protecting the wood through its water-repellent effect. However, this is undesirable in the area of the block and windway - here oil would lead to disturbing droplet formation ('droplet hoarseness'). But don't worry: even if a small amount of oil gets onto the block, it usually washes out again during playing (e.g. with the help of 'Antikondens').
The middle joint and foot are thoroughly oiled using the wooden wiper stick and a small cotton cloth (not fluffy!) and set aside for retraction.
The flute head requires particular care: hold the instrument with the windway facing upwards so that no oil can flow towards the block. Now insert the wooden rod with the well-oiled cloth from below into the inner bore of the flute and push it with slight turns until just before the block. Watch carefully through the cut-out opening ('window') to ensure that no oil reaches the front surface of the block!
The labium is oiled from the front and back with the pipe cleaner.
The beak can be lightly oiled after it has been cleaned of dirt. This brings out the grain of the wood particularly well.
Surface: Non-lacquered instruments are wiped from the outside with a slightly oily cloth. Lacquered surfaces should not be treated with oil!
2.Step: Allow to soak in
Now leave the instrument for a few hours (e.g. on a plate) so that the oil can soak in. Important: place the head upright so that no oil runs to the block.
3.Step: Wipe dry
Now carefully wipe away any oil that has not yet been absorbed with a clean cloth, as excess oil hardens into an ugly, sticky film that is very difficult to remove! This applies in particular to the tone holes: no oil residue should be left here as it would change the tuning! Use the pipe cleaner from the care set for this.
Tenon grease: to keep things running smoothly .
The tenon joints on the headjoint and footjoint of your recorder need care to ensure that they always remain elastic and smooth-running. The tenon grease only needs to be applied sparingly. Please remove any excess grease so that it does not stick to the edges of the tone hole.
A tip: Always turn tenon joints that are difficult to turn in one direction only. Then it's easier!
Care and cleaning
After playing, you should blow the moisture out of the windway of your recorder, e.g. as described above in connection with the anticondensation. Then wipe the inside of your instrument dry with the small leather cloth and the Kuncloth stick. You should then leave it open and disassembled (so that the tenon joints do not rub!) to allow it to dry further.
You can clean your recorder from time to time: wipe it with a damp cloth (possibly with a drop of dishwashing liquid/anticondensation). Traces of use usually settle in the beak area in particular, which can be removed in this way. Unvarnished instruments can then be easily oiled.
The pipe cleaner is the right tool for the tone holes: Has any dirt settled here that could affect the tuning?
The powerful wiper stick in your care set is used to clean the inside of the recorder, e.g. to remove adhering dirt or fluff.
This text has been automatically translated and may contain errors.
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